A sticker is only as good as the surface it’s on. Most surfaces are easy. A few are sneaky. Here’s the cheat sheet.
Easy: stick away
- Glass and mirrors. The best surface there is.
- Bare and painted metal, including most toolboxes, bottles, coolers and car bodies with fully cured paint.
- Smooth hard plastics like ABS and polycarbonate: most laptops, phone cases and helmets.
- Sealed wood and smooth, glossy painted surfaces.
Tricky: test first
- “Low surface energy” plastics: polyethylene and polypropylene. Think plastic storage bins, some kayaks, cutting boards and many car bumpers. Adhesive struggles to grip them. Clean well, press hard and test a small piece first.
- Textured and powder-coated finishes. The sticker only touches the high points. Some smooth powder coats are fine; rough or matte textures often aren’t.
- Fresh paint. New paint keeps releasing solvents as it cures, which can push a sticker off or bubble it. Give house paint and automotive paint a few weeks to cure before applying.
- Flat or matte wall paint. It holds, but taking the sticker off later can take paint with it.
Don’t bother
- Silicone and anything coated with it.
- Fabric, unless it’s a product made for it.
- Raw concrete, brick and unsealed wood. Too porous and dusty.
- Anything greasy, waxed or freshly treated with a protectant (car interiors, dashboards).
Prep that makes the difference
- Wash off dirt with soapy water and dry it.
- Wipe with rubbing alcohol to remove wax, oil and fingerprints.
- Apply when the surface is above about 10°C (50°F).
- Press hard, especially the edges, and leave it for 24 hours before it gets wet.
Not sure about your surface? Order a few extra and test one. Stickers are cheaper than regret.
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